The arrival of Li Lian at Park Hyatt Jakarta marks the hotel’s first venture into Chinese cuisine, long after establishing its footing with Western and Indonesian offerings. The name, inspired by the lotus flower, carries the meanings of purity and harmony– aptly named to fit its mission in bringing balance between tradition and contemporary dining experience. Led by Chef Tan Kwang Aik, Li Lian presents itself as a modern Cantonese restaurant that honours time-tested flavours without leaning into spectacle.
Located on Level 19 of the hotel, the layout unfolds with a domestic rhythm. Guests are first welcomed by a tea bar, followed by a series of spaces that move like rooms within a home, the living rooms, verandahs, and private dining chambers— where each is framed by the sweeping views of Jakarta’s skyline. The interiors bring forth muted tones, patterned tiles, rattan textures, and clean timer lines.
The verandah, with its floor-to-ceiling windows, sits between intimacy and openness, offering the city as a backdrop. In the private dining rooms, the atmosphere turns inward. Red chairs and lacquered shelves lined with porcelain vases recall the palette of old family homes, while the glow of the chandelier above the circular table draws the eye to where conversation and meal meet.
Li Lian’s kitchen is helmed by Executive Chinese Chef Tan Kwang Aik, whose two decades of experience span award-winning restaurants in luxury hotels, including a Michelin-starred setting. His approach is rooted in respect for classic Cantonese cooking while allowing space for reinterpretation. The menu balances familiarity with depth, drawing on locally and sustainably sourced ingredients that reflect both season and place.
The highlights of the menu range from the traditional Peking duck, prepared by Duck Specialties Chef Victor. Roasted over rambutan wood, it develops a fine layer of smokiness that deepens its flavour without overpowering it. The duck is joined by other standouts such as wok-fried Wagyu beef tenderloin M8 with Yunnan trumpet mushrooms and asparagus in black pepper sauce, smoked marble goby glazed in caramelised soy, and poached tiger grouper fillet served with pickled cabbage, tofu, chilli, and a light fish broth.
Dim Sum Master Chef Huang adds a more casual rhythm to the experience with his signature platter, designed to evoke the day-long dining culture of Cantonese households. The open kitchen, clad in travertine and copper, gives diners a glimpse of order behind the heat, with the aligned knives, flickering flames, the slow rotation of ducks above the wood oven.
For Restaurant Manager Jerry Choo, the idea behind Li Lian is not to overwhelm but to welcome. He describes the space as “warm, familiar and comforting,” and that intention is clear across the board.
Level 19, Park Hyatt Jakarta
Jl. Kebon Sirih No.17-19, Menteng
+62 21 31190333 | dineatthepark.jakarta@hyatt.com
@lilian.parkhyatt
