Setu Babakan
A traditional Betawi house stands in Ismail Marzuki Village, preserving local heritage; The entrance to Kampung Ismail Marzuki is marked by a traditional gate with vintage charm. Photos by Begies Imanda.

Setu Babakan Betawi Cultural Village doesn’t merely display traditions, it brings them to life. Here, Jakarta residents and visiting tourists alike can witness the Betawi way of life, traditional performances, savour authentic cuisine, and experience the daily rhythm of Jakarta’s indigenous culture.

Setu Babakan Betawi Cultural Village is found in Srengseng Sawah, set beside an expansive lake and enclosed by rich Javan greenery. The area’s name reflects agrarian roots (sawah meaning rice field in Indonesia), but once was known as ‘Sringsing’, during the Dutch colonial era, when the land was tied to a wealthy entrepreneur, Cornelis Chastelein, best known for his extensive estates in and around Depok.

Though now a cultural village, Setu Babakan traces its own roots back to this era, when Batavia (now Jakarta) was being developed as an administrative centre. During this time, surrounding swamplands were drained to make way for settlements. Setu Babakan, once a swamp, was transformed into a residential area. The name is derived from the Betawi words setu (lake) and babakan (origin or source), referencing the area as both a vital water source and a cultural root for the Betawi people.

Setu Babakan
Ondel-Ondel, one of the Betawi’s culture icons welcome guests at the Betawi Museum’s front. Photo by Begies Imanda.

Over generations, Betawi communities settled in the area and preserved their customs, from traditional dance and music to clothing, culinary practices, and storytelling. However, formal recognition of Setu Babakan as a cultural heritage site didn’t come until the 1990s, led by the Betawi Community Consultative Body (Bamus Betawi). 

The organisation spearheaded the establishment of a dedicated cultural centre, stating that this would be a crucial step in safeguarding the living legacy of Jakarta’s original inhabitants. Betawi culture was born through a slow and gradual evolution: a long historical, socio-cultural process brought about by diverse populations and ethnic groups migrating to Batavia. Since then, Jakarta has itself evolved further, modernised, and as a result the Betawi culture is not as prominent or visible as it once. As such, the creation of an official ‘Cultural Village’ like Setu Babakan can be seen as sign of the culture becoming increasingly “museumised”, i.e. something no longer “lived”, a static remnant of the past that is exhibited and preserved.

In 2000, Srengseng Sawah residents and the the Governor of DKI Jakarta issued a decree to reorganise and develop Setu Babakan as a centre for Betawi culture, and was inaugurated as such in 2004 by Governor Sutiyoso. Later in 2017, the Setu Babakan Betawi Museum was opened to add to the visitor experience.

Setu Babakan
Students explore the diverse collections on display at the Betawi Museum. Photo by Begies Imanda.

The village area is vast, covering 289 hectares, divided into different zones named after famous Jakarta figures: M.H. Thamrin village (Zone A), Ismail Marzuki village (Zone C), Abdurrahman Saleh village (Zone B), and K.H. Noer Ali village (Zone of Development). The remaining areas of the village are residential and ‘Embryo Zones’, where daily life continues alongside cultural preservation efforts.

As the main hub of activity, the M.H. Thamrin Zone, also called the arts zone, serves as a dedicated space for Betawi cultural performances and exhibitions. The zone features an open-air amphitheater, traditional Betawi houses, multipurpose buildings, and the Betawi Museum.

Inside the Betawi Museum, visitors are taken on an immersive journey through Betawi life and traditions across three themed galleries: The Eight Betawi Cultural Icons Gallery, showcasing eight unique symbols that represent the distinct identity of the Betawi people; the Betawi People’s House Gallery, featuring a replica of a traditional Betawi home, complete with authentic furniture and interior decor; and The Betawi Bridal Gallery, highlighting iconic wedding traditions, this gallery features the striking 4,5-meter-long Golok Si Rajut, nearly 200-kilogram traditional machete crafted by Oji Junaidi of Bamus Betawi, which has become a centrepiece of the exhibit.

Setu Babakan
Golok Si Rajut has become a centerpiece of the museum. Photo by Begies Imanda.

In the Ismail Marzuki village, visitors can explore a replica of a traditional Betawi village, based on three distinct Betawi sub-ethnic groups: Betawi Pinggir, Betawi Tengah, and Betawi Pesisir. Each group is distinguished by its geographic origin and unique cultural characteristics. These differences are reflected in the architectural styles of the traditional house replicas within the village, allowing visitors to easily identify each sub-ethnic area through its distinct building features. Betawi Pinggir (or Udik/Ora): Found in Jakarta’s outskirts (Tangerang, Depok, Bogor, Bekasi), they traditionally lived in low-stilt houses and relied on agriculture. Betawi Tengah: Located in central Jakarta (e.g. Senen, Jatinegara), they lived in non-stilt houses, reflecting a more urban lifestyle.
Betawi Pesisir: Coastal communities (e.g. Marunda, Kepulauan Seribu) who built high-stilt houses adapted to tides and worked in maritime trades.

When exploring Ismail Marzuki village, visitors are welcomed by a natural, serene atmosphere filled with green trees, ponds, and animal pens housing cows and chickens. This setting offers a refreshing experience, especially for younger generations who may be unfamiliar with the traditional lifestyle of a Betawi village in the past. Its location on the edge of Lake Setu Babakan allows visitors to enjoy tranquil views of the water, enhancing the sense of relaxation and connection to nature.

Currently, access to the village is limited. Visitors must request permission in advance and clearly state the purpose of their visit.

Meanwhile, other areas within the broader Setu Babakan cultural zone are being developed for complementary purposes. The Embryo Zone functions as a space for Betawi cultural forums, hosting discussions and workshops led by Betawi cultural figures and community members. K.H. Noer Ali Village has been designated as the site for an Arts & Culture Vocational High School, while Abdurrahman Saleh Village remains an undeveloped plot of land.

Setu Babakan
Pecak Ayam Kampung, a traditional Betawi dish widely sold in Setu Babakan, features crispy fried free-range chicken topped with a spicy sauce. Photo by Begies Imanda.

Throughout the Setu Babakan area, visitors will notice houses adorned with distinct Betawi cultural elements, a style encouraged by the local government. These features include decorative gigi balang as roof ornaments and the use of traditional Betawi colors: green and yellow. Many of these homes also function as souvenir shops, offering a variety of Betawi handicrafts such as batik cloth, traditional sadariah and pangsi clothing, ondel-ondel figures, and a selection of local snacks. Scattered across the area are eateries serving a wide range of Betawi culinary specialties, allowing visitors to enjoy an authentic taste of the culture.

The Setu Babakan Betawi Cultural Village is open to the public free of charge, with no entrance fee required. Visitors only need to pay for vehicle parking, whether arriving by motorbike or car. The main area, including the Betawi Museum, is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 9am to 3pm, following the museum’s operating hours. However, the area around Lake Setu Babakan remains accessible daily until 6pm.

Setu Babakan Betawi Cultural Village
Jl. Moh. Kahfi 2, Srengseng Sawah, Jagakarsa, Jakarta Selatan
+62 21 2780 2322
@pbbsetubabakan

Sari Widiati

Sari Widiati

Sari has been an arts and culture enthusiast for many years. She has written extensively on the arts, travel, and social issues as Features Writer at NOW! Jakarta.