Li Lian 丽莲’s Executive Chef shares his vision for Park Hyatt Jakarta’s newest dining destination.
Perched high on the 19th floor, Li Lian 丽莲 at Park Hyatt Jakarta is designed with the intimacy of a refined residence, with spaces named Living Room and Veranda evoking a sense of home, comfort and familiarity – albeit blessed with sprawling views of Jakarta’s skyline. The interiors are elegant and understated, with soft lighting made to encourage lingering conversations and leisurely evenings.
The name “Li Lian 丽莲” means lotus, a flower long tied to family, and that symbolism guides the restaurant’s concept: authentic Cantonese cuisine, served family-style, with dishes made for sharing. Tasked with delivering this experience to guests is Executive Chef Tan Kwang Aik. Malaysian-born, with a career spanning Michelin-starred kitchens and luxury hotels across Asia, Chef Tan channels his roots and his professional experience to serve genuine Cantonese flavours.
For Chef Tan, family has always been the heartbeat of his culinary journey. With over twenty years of experience, he continues to honour the influence of his late grandparents, whom he regards as the true master chefs of his childhood.
“Whenever there was a wedding or party, people would ask them to cook, and I would always follow them anywhere,” he reflects. Their generous home-style meals left an indelible mark, instilling values of care and generosity that remain the foundation of his cooking style today. That imprint surfaces now in the way he curates his dishes at Li Lian 丽莲, echoing the spirit of those home-style meals, but elevating them for discerning diners.
“Authentic in taste is non-negotiable, what we can adjust is the way it’s presented, making them inviting for today’s audience,” he explains. His Sweet & Sour Pork, transformed into a sculptural bowl adorned with berries becomes a playful expression of how familiar fare can be reimagined with artistry. Chef Tan’s childhood memories resurface in specialties like Abalone Chicken and Beetroot Fried Rice with Lap Cheong, whilst adapted creations include the Crispy Pork Belly served on hot stone and Char Siew smoked with jasmine tea.
The restaurant’s piece de resistance is its wood-fired Peking Duck, roasted over rambutan wood for a smoky depth that sets it apart from other renditions. Chef Tan explains that “Cooking over firewood lends the duck a flavour that feels richer, more layered than conventional roasting.” Carved and prepared at the table, served in multiple forms, dinner turns into performance—a ritual that embodies both tradition and spectacle.
Chef Tan often comes to the table during service to share the story behind each dish, looking to engage with guests directly. This is part of his mission to connect to Jakarta diners. In the months leading to Li Lian 丽莲’s debut, Tan immersed himself in the city’s dining culture to absorb its spirit, “My first time in Jakarta, my friend brought me to a few local restaurants. Of course, the local Chinese food is not so Cantonese, but it helps understand the local taste,” he recalls.
Looking ahead, Tan envisions Li Lian 丽莲 as a dynamic space that grows with Jakarta’s tastes. “Cuisine should unfold with the city — Jakarta’s tastes are dynamic, and Li Lian 丽莲 will grow with that,” he notes. It is a philosophy that keeps the restaurant rooted in heritage yet open to change, much like the lotus that inspired its name: grounded in tradition, but always reaching upward, blooming quietly above the city lights.
Level 19, Park Hyatt Jakarta
Jl. Kebon Sirih No.17-19, Menteng
+62 21 31190333
dineatthepark.jakarta@hyatt.com
@lilian.atparkhyatt
