Pangsi is a traditional male attire that consists of a plain, loose-fitting shirt and oversized ankle-length pants. While similar garments are worn across various Indonesian cultural groups including the Sudanese and the Malay, the Betawi Pangsi stands out with its own diverse philosophy, heritage and symbolism that embodies the modest practicality of the Betawi people, while retaining a clean, dignified look.
Based on many sources, pangsi was influenced by Chinese culture. The name baju tikim is derived from the Hokkien term tui kim, while celana pangsi comes from phang si. These garments were originally worn by Chinese immigrants and were later adopted and adapted by local Betawi communities.
Since the 15th and 16th centuries, the attire has been worn by martial artists (jawara), thugs (jagoan), and bodyguards (centeng), symbolising strength and vigilance. The full outfit consists of the baju tikim (shirt) and celana pangsi (trousers), though today the ensemble is commonly referred to as baju pangsi.
Cut loosely for comfort and mobility, baju pangsi features a rounded neck and long sleeves. Though traditionally buttonless, modern versions now commonly include buttons. Betawi men often wear a plain white inner shirt underneath, sometimes leaving the shirt unbuttoned. While celana pangsi are also loosely tailored and cut to fall above the ankles, giving an oversized appearance. The trousers usually match the shirt in color to maintain a unified look.
One of the defining elements of Betawi pangsi is its colour variation, which contrasts with the Sundanese version that is typically black. In Betawi tradition, colour denotes the social status or role of the wearer: white or cream pangsi is worn by respected pesilat (martial arts masters) who are also religious figures. These individuals often studied the Quran under the guidance of elder engkong haji (grandfathers who had performed the Hajj pilgrimage). While black pangsi is associated with street fighters and thugs, red pangsi is the rarest and most revered, symbolising a person of high martial skill and religious knowledge.
The colours also influence the accompanying accessories, especially the traditional peci (cap). In the past, wearing a red peci signified that a person was highly educated, experienced, and a respected community leader, comparable to the symbolism of a red beret in modern military contexts. A person wearing both red peci and red pangsi was viewed as a protector of society, stepping in only during the gravest threats. Thus, this red attire holds sacred status and is traditionally not worn casually, except for artistic or ceremonial purposes.
Additional accessories complete the Betawi ensemble: a large Betawi belt, a long machete at the waist, and leather sandals. A multifunctional folded sarong is often draped around the neck: serving as a prayer mat, a garment for worship, or even a defensive tool in physical confrontations.
