Though ever popular, branded clothing often overshadows the treasures we find locally-made here in Indonesia. Luxury brands certainly have their appeal and status, but when it comes to finding something truly bespoke and culturally-inspired, there’s a lot left to be desired. Interests are skewed, and Indonesian-made brands aren’t getting the appreciation they deserve, so here we share the story of meLOOKmeL, a fashion gem reserved for real trend-setters of the capital.
Created by designer Melanie Wibowo Dharmosetio, meLOOKmeL bridges a gap between Indonesian artistry and a timeless simplicity, bringing the unique aesthetics of traditional Baduy textiles into a contemporary setting. Century old traditions given a modern, creative touch.
Melanie’s world has always been intertwined with art and design. As a child she displayed a natural penchant for illustrations, sketching landscapes, flowers and everyday objects, catching the attention of her school. She was often chosen to illustrate school blackboards and murals. Later, her skills were honed in a new direction, fashion, where her designs graced the runway of school fashion shows, igniting a passion for design that were the early seeds of what meLOOKmeL would be today. Though life’s fate steered her onto numerous different paths, her love for art and design remained steadfast, patiently awaiting for its chance to flourish once more.
Around 2014, Melanie left her executive job and took a big turn in her career. She reignited the dimmed light she had for fashion and began the journey of meLOOKmeL. Despite many concerns from her family, she did not waver. To her, there was no such thing as ‘too late’ or ‘too risky’ when it came to her passion. Her years-long experience working in the corporate world had only sharpened her marketing, management and social skills, the very qualities that she needed to support her talent in fashion to create a clothing brand.
The event that kickstarted the beginning of meLOOKmeL was INACRAFT (Southeast Asia’s biggest handicraft exhibition) in 2016, when her design was awarded the second place in the textile category. Melanie’s choice to use Baduy woven garments caught the attention of panellists.
meLOOKmeL as a brand stands out as a celebration of individuality and self-expression. The designer explains that meLOOKmeL embodies a deeply personal characteristic rooted in self-assurance and authenticity. When asked to explain the meaning behind the name, she reflects on her own approach to fashion: “I never follow other people’s styles,” she muses. “I always think, ‘this suits me, I want this, and I deserve this.’” This sentiment encapsulates the essence of meLOOKmeL – a celebration of individuality and self-worth. The name itself, a playful fusion of “Me” and “Mel,” reflects this philosophy succinctly: “I am as you see me.”
But meLOOKmeL is not just about making a statement; it’s also about embracing simplicity and elegance. The designer’s personal motto – white clothes – speaks volumes about her aesthetic preferences. “White clothes are elegant and clean,” she explains, “and suitable to be combined with any type of clothing.” This is why you’d find lots of clothes by meLOOKmeL coming in white– versatile and sophisticated.
Yet, beneath its fashionable designs, lies a deep appreciation for the artistry and craftsmanship that goes into each piece. The designer’s encounter with fabric woven by the Baduy tribe serves as an example of this. Drawn to its understated beauty and rich cultural heritage, she delved into the philosophy behind Baduy textiles, finding inspiration in their simplicity and harmony with nature.
One of the key features that distinguishes meLOOKmeL’s designs is the utilisation of Baduy fabric, as well as the thoughtful integration of its unique characteristics into each garment. Adu mancung or the meeting points, the square-shaped tajur pinang, suat songket, suat kembang gedang, aros and many more– these elements come in pattern and used with a minimalist design approach that allows them to shine, subtly woven into the clothes yet unmistakable noticeable upon closer inspection.
Another distinctive feature of meLOOKmeL’s designs is their versatility. While inspired by traditional Baduy patterns, meLOOKmeL’s garments are designed to be worn in a variety of settings, from casual outings to formal events. This versatility, combined with their timeless elegance, makes meLOOKmeL’s designs a favourite among those who appreciate both style and substance.
However, creating these unique pieces comes with its challenges. The weavers of the Baduy tribe have specific times for weaving and non-weaving, as well as for harvesting and weddings. This means that meLOOKmeL cannot always request fabric orders based on market demand and must instead adhere to the weavers’ schedule. Despite these challenges, meLOOKmeL sees this as an opportunity to uphold the traditions and values of the Baduy tribe, ensuring that each piece is imbued with a sense of authenticity and cultural significance.
meLOOKmeL is also committed to zero-waste and sustainability. Leftover fabric scraps are not discarded but transformed into ornamental accents, ensuring that each garment tells a story of resourcefulness. This sustainable approach not only aligns with meLOOKmeL’s philosophy but also resonates with consumers who are increasingly seeking out environmentally conscious fashion choices.
When it comes to the process of creation, each design is born from a moment of inspiration and often a timeline dictated by the availability of the woven fabric. Sewing takes about a week to two weeks, if a piece does not meet the high standards set by the designer, it is reworked, sometimes taking months to transform into a new and bespoke item. Most of the designs come in limited edition, as the fabrics received vary with each shipment, determined solely by the weavers. This guarantees that each piece of fashion is unique.
In regards to the procurement process, the designer engages directly with the Baduy community with the help from a third party, mainly a translator from the Outer Baduy tribe. This direct interaction ensures a deeper understanding of the community’s traditions and values, leading to a more meaningful collaboration, and despite the rigid standards imposed by the Baduy community, she sees it as a creative challenge rather than a limitation.
In a world often dazzled by the allure of international luxury brands, it is crucial that we also embrace and celebrate our local fashion houses, as they are the reminders that the true essence of wealth lies in the depth of our culture and creativity. With each meticulous design, meLOOKmeL pays homage to Indonesia’s heritage, weaving together threads of tradition and innovation while showcasing the beauty of Baduy textiles that fosters a deeper appreciation for Indonesia’s abundant cultural inheritance.
melookmel.com | IG: @melookmel
