Most wouldn’t think twice about the pulp left behind after brewing coffee, which is usually discarded without a second thought. But for Bell Living Lab, waste isn’t waste at all; it’s raw potential waiting to be turned into something valuable. This Bandung-based biomaterials producer is quietly reshaping the materials industry by taking agricultural waste and transforming it into materials that rival leather, wood, and foam in looks, quality, and conscience.
These days, the word “sustainability” is used so frequently that it risks becoming a marketing buzzword aimed at consumers eager to save the planet with a single, simple purchase. However, Bell Living Lab—or BELL for short—is not here to sell virtue; they’re engineering it, one batch of coffee at a time.
The journey began when two biologists, Semeru Gita Lestari and Arka Irfani, observed that even in conservation areas, waste was still widespread. Many leather factories use toxic chemicals to soften their materials and dispose of the resulting waste improperly. This inspired the pair to embark on a mission to create leather alternatives that would not harm the environment or consumers throughout the production process.
BELL did not initially start with coffee. During their three-year research period from 2020 to 2022, they experimented with various types of waste materials. Eventually, they discovered that despite Indonesia’s booming coffee industry, one major issue stood out: for every tonne of coffee beans harvested, an equivalent amount of fruit waste is left to rot by the roadside.
Seeing this problem, Semeru and Arka began researching and experimenting with coffee fruits, eventually discovering that the fruit waste contains nutrients. By adding bacteria that “eats” these nutrients, they were able to produce cellulose. The process takes about 30 days and is similar to kombucha fermentation. During this period cellulose fibres begin to grow. A week later, the material enters the post-production phase, which includes drying, colouring, sizing, and coating until it turns into a product called M-TEX leather.
M-TEX is BELL’s most advanced material. Its texture closely resembles leather, and it comes in three different colours, all dyed using natural pigments commonly found in batik. It is a fully bio-based alternative to animal leather that does not compromise on strength, durability, or aesthetics. Unlike animal hides, which come in irregular, organic shapes, M-TEX can be produced in precise rectangular sheets up to 6 metres by 1 metre, making it far easier for tailors and designers to work with.
While common tanning methods often rely on chromium and consume vast amounts of water, M-TEX is non-toxic, water-efficient, and certified by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) as 100% bio-based. It also exceeds the Indonesian National Standard (SNI) for leather strength at 13.25 Megapascal (MPa), proving it can go toe-to-toe with the real thing. M-TEX is suitable for wallets, bags, accessories, and even furniture.In addition to M-TEX, BELL produces three other materials, all derived from coffee waste. Kalpa is a board-like material known for its sculptability and resilience. Made from lightweight coffee husks, it strikes a balance between form and function with a unique twist. Kalpa can be moulded into anything from minimalist chairs to wall panels, proving its versatility. It is lighter than wood and equally robust, as well as durable and weather and water resistant, making it ideal for furniture design and suitable for outdoor use. Another material called C-Foam introduces a softer, more tactile material to BELL’s range of offerings. It offers a flexible alternative to Kalpa’s rigidity. Its foam-like texture ensures a level of comfort that makes it ideal for cushions, seat pads, and armrests.
MADS is the quiet innovator of BELL’s line-up. Made from the offcuts of M-TEX, it is far from an afterthought. Unlike its parent material, MADS is more pliable while still retaining the leather-like feel. Its flexibility opens new creative avenues for designers seeking texture with adaptability. Still in development, MADS is emerging as a low-waste, high-potential option for design projects that require a softer touch.The quality of these biomaterials has been tested and proven. In 2024, BELL Living Lab was awarded the Good Design Award Japan for M-TEX, an international distinction that acts both as validation and as a passport to the notoriously selective world of industrial design. The BELL’s team many awards and milestones haven’t slowed down their commitment to research and innovation. They have quietly begun researching other types of agricultural waste: cocoa husks, sorghum, pine needles, and more. These are all discarded materials that can cause environmental harm if mismanaged. BELL’s upcoming product line, still partially under wraps, promises to expand beyond the world of coffee.
Bell Living Lab is redefining how materials are sourced, produced, and perceived by transforming agricultural waste into high-performance, aesthetically pleasing alternatives to leather, foam, and board. Their work challenges the status quo of extractive and polluting production models, setting a new standard on how the industry can and should operate in harmony with the environment.
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